Skin helper bacteria: fermentation in the cosmetics industry +2023

skin helper bacteria
This is behind fermented cosmetics

Power of plants as a beauty trend

Power of plants as a beauty trend

© Ansgar Sollmann

Super healthy via bacteria: what is trending in food is now also inspiring the world of cosmetics. But which skin helpers are actually created? And how?

That’s why fermentation makes sense

Fermentation has been used for ages to preserve food. Vitamins and lactic acid are produced during the fermentation process. Our intestinal flora in particular benefits from the latter, because lactic acid ensures an acidic pH value, which in turn is appreciated by the good intestinal bacteria – and they like to multiply in this environment.

Fermented extracts and active ingredients are now also found in many serums and creams. Because what is good on the inside should be just as useful on the outside. However, the way to get there usually falls into the category of biotechnology.

This is how fermented cosmetics are made

The process is more complex for cosmetics than for food. In the laboratory, for example, certain bacteria are specifically fed with plant extracts. For the luxury cosmetics by Dior, for example, an extract from the seeds of the Longoza flower was chosen.

We were able to extract substances such as amino acids, peptides, flavonoids and acids.

A mixture of yeast, milk and vinegar bacteria was added to the seed extract, explains Virginie Couturaud, Scientific Communication Director at Dior. “In this way, a very active spectrum of skin care molecules has formed. But isolated active ingredients can also be specifically obtained with the help of bacteria, for example the moisturizer hyaluronic acid or lactic acid.

Expert reveals: Lactic acid achieves this effect

“Lactic acid pulls the pH of a cosmetic towards the skin, making it more acidic, which is why we like to use it in our products for sensitive skin. In addition, lactic acid is part of the skin’s natural moisturizing complex and is therefore known to it,” explains Dr. David Hauck, founder of a research institute for natural active ingredients and the premium natural cosmetics brand Dr. hauck “Because we isolate the acid, there are no skin-irritating substances such as histamine, which can occur in the classic fermentation process.”


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